More at Kerikeri

Back at the camping place at Kerikeri

Stone Store and Kemp house from the pa site at dusk

Me at Waimate mission house

Blue dot in centre is Malcolm photographing a butterfly

Dreadlocked ram, Waimate

Waimate Church, rebuilt 1871

After another week in Whangarei we returned to Rainbow Falls camp.  Today we went to the Saturday market as the sausages we got there a couple of weeks ago were so nice and we wanted more.  We bought pastries from the Flour Power baker, plum and ginger sauce made in Hukeranui and listened to some jazz.  Later we went to Waimate North and looked around the mission house and grounds, also the churchyard.

Russell

Waka on the beach at waitangi

Russell jetty

Not a bad spot for a coffee

Pompallier Mission

 

Pompallier - peaceful spot, lovely garden

 

Ferry back to Paihia

 

Yesterday we took the ferry from Paihia to Russell.  Parked at Pahia and the car park had a friendly Maori warden who told us $2 would be enough for parking, if we got back late it wouldn't matter.  Walking past the historic Williams house a caretaker was picking figs off a big old tree and gave me some.  Over in Russell our mission was to visit Pompallier Mission and we got there just in time for a tour.  Now we know all about tanning leather and printing books, sewing them up etc.  It was very interesting and much better than just looking at the objects as you would without a guide.  The gardens were established in the 1880s and the whole setting was lovely.  Shame to leave Russell but we did have to get back to the bus and return to Whangarei.

 

 

 

Marsden Cross

Malcolm's photo of a cicada...

...and a grass-hopper, seen as we walked to Marsden Cross

Interpretive panels on the way

 

View of the Bay of Islands from the track

Malcolm taking a photo...

...this one.  The info panel placed so no picture is required, you just look through the space.

 

More info at the site, cross on the right, middle distance

Me

 

 

Today we went to Marsden Cross/Rangihoua Bay.  This is on a peninsula on the western entrance to the Bay of Isalnds.  From the unsealed road there are views of Te Puna Inlet and the Bay to the right and the coastline up to the Cavelli Islands to the left.  From the car park there is a track that winds down to the beach.  By the road is a sort of origami pavilion with a 3D map of the site etc and along the track are pou-like information boards.  Down at the beach is the place where Samuel Marsden preached the first Christian service in NZ - 200 years ago.  A mission settlement was formed then under the protection of chiefs at the adjacent pa.  Pictorial information panels give details about the settlement, right on the spot they are describing.  It was a warm, sunny day with no-one else around.  Only the insects and birds.

Ngawha Hot Springs

A Maori cultural guide explaining the treaty of Waitangi to a German guy

Disembodied head of Malcolm

relaxing

A rather ramshackle place

Ngawha hot springs is a curious place.  It has always been under-developed but the water is great.  It costs $4 per person and the ambiance is rustic/dilapidated.  Not much to please the eye - ragged bits of plywood as barriers and faded, peeling murals.  The ground between the pools is muddy gravel and the pools themselves are mud- floored with wooden seats.  But there are many small pools all different temperatures, some too hot to attempt.  We found 3 good hot ones and a couple of cooler ones.  The water is reputedly therapeutic - if slightly sulphuric smelling.  A good place to while away an hour or two on a grey day.

Hokianga

Church at the Mangungu Mission Station

Mangungu

Jetty at low tide, Mangungu

Waiting for the ferry at Rawene, 1 horse town

Boat shed café at left...

...where I had this yummy macadamia cake

 

Sundial at Kohukohu

 

 

On Sunday we drove west to the Hokianga Harbour.  Where Kerikeri is quite sophisticated, with wineries, foodie markets, tourism etc Hokianga is more sleepy and old-fashioned.  Almost the first thing we saw as we left the main road for Horeke were 2 little Maori kids on a horse, plodding along the road.  At Mangungu we explored the mission grounds and spent some time on the jetty watching mullet in the shallows and swallows flying around us, catching insects.  The grave-yard was interesting too.  Many of the early settlers on the harbour drowned.

Next we took the winding road that loops inland then back out to the water again at Rawene.  This little settlement has some new art galleries and cafes but we visited our old favourite, the boat shed café that is built on piles over the water.

Then we took the ferry to Kohikohu.  The waterline café in the old butchers shop is closed now but there was a new one across the road.  We had ice-cream again though - too soon after the cake for lunch.  We wandered around the township - once a centre for logging of kauri, a mill and a shipyard - now a higgledy-piggledy assortment of old villas and cottages.  We once had a walk brochure that explained what each had been but didn't have that with us of course.  Luckily they now have old photos and information displayed around the streets so we did (re)learn something about what we were looking at.

Rainbow Falls

Rainbow Falls

Malcolm at the Stone Store Basin Honey House Cafe

Kemp House, New Zealand's oldest building

 

Me at the Stone Store, New Zealand's first stone building

 

On Saturday we walked from our campsite at Rainbow Falls, alongside the river to the Stone Store Basin.  This is an hours walk through bush passing the falls, Fairy Pools (swimming hole) and another small waterfall before arriving at Kemp House at the stone store basin.  There were a few tourists around but it wasn't that busy.  We had big ice-creams and a stroll around before walking back.  A good afternoon expedition. 

Round and about some more

The Manukau Harbour at Ambury

Limestone Island...

...sunset, Onerahi

Another beautiful morning at Uretiti

View of the heads from Uretiti

It's a hard life!

We left Ambury and as we had to do some work on a house in Whangarei (the tenants had left)we spent more time at the bridge, behind the swimming pool, Onerahi etc.  Finally we finished that job and went back to Uretiti to meet up with friends from Wellington.